Butter: A Celebration

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You can divide my life into Before Butter and After Butter.I didn't grow up with butter. For many years, the closest I came to butter was 'spread', margarine masquerading as butter. I am proof, if proof were needed, that it is possible to live a perfectly happy life without butter. But I can tell you that life is far richer with butter in it. I started cooking in earnest in my early twenties. I spent my days creaming butter for cakes, grating butter into flakey pastry, rolling butter out into perfect rectangles for croissants and Danishes, kneading whole pats of butter into bread dough until it turned primrose yellow for brioche, whisking butter into vinegar to make hollandaise and béarnaise, spooning it onto hot steak over and over again, basting, and rubbing it into chicken skin. I cooked my way through cookbooks, from beginning to end, ticking off recipes as I went, and I learnt that so much of what I loved cooking depended on butter. You could manipulate it a thousand different ways, and get a thousand different results. And, somewhere along the line, I fell in love.

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