Gravy Quarterly No. 86

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The Winter 2023 issue of Gravy asks questions about what barbecue is, who makes it, and how the craft is changing. From sliced beef brisket to pulled pork, from tacos to fire-roasted vegetables, barbecue speaks to the past, present, and future of the South and to the stories of pitmasters?the places they work, the smoke they conjure, and the sauces they stir.Writer and cultural critic Latria Graham draws a through line from the transatlantic slave trade to contemporary South Carolina barbecue. Farhan Mustafa tells of Muslim American meat smoking traditions, situating lamb and goat within the international canon. Columnist Hanna Raskin ponders the question of liquor in barbecue restaurants, lingering at the intersection of business, culture, and religion. Author Daniel Vaughn examines the Texas barbecue juggernaut, and why barbecue outside the South?and outside the United States?is almost always made in the Texas style. Folklorist and researcher Michelle Zacks explains how smoked mullet took the Florida Panhandle. Columnist Gustavo Arellano takes readers to a Latino backyard barbecue, and Jason McCall shares poetry.