The Ethnic Restaurateur

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Public discussions of culinary taste in media-saturated American cities are dominated today by an emergent professional chef who is the mirror image of the foreign-born, untrained, ethnic cook. The former occupies the heights of the culinary field, just as the latter may be seen to inhabit the bottom rungs of the hierarchy. The Ethnic Restaurateur inserts the habits, memories, work and dreams of immigrant entrepreneurs into considerations of food culture in a global city. The ethnic restaurateur is shown to be at the centre of 'taste transactions', linking two theoretical streams, taste and toil, in direct conversation for the first time. This fascinating account is the first book to conceptualise the immigrant restaurateur and pay attention to the peculiar intimacy and yet polarisation which exists between the native and the ethnic that has shaped public cultures of eating and cooking in the United States. The Ethnic Restaurateur is essential reading for students, scholars of food studies, culinary arts and sociology and indeed anyone interested in popular culture and cooking in the United States.

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